Bits, Bites, and Beyond

Insights from an auspicious traveler and eater

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I am a hopeful and auspicious traveler and eater.

  • San Jose del Cabo or Cabo? That is the question

    Bits:

    For years I thought these two destinations were roughly equivalent. Boy was I wrong. Cabo is the a livelier location for families, spring breakers, main port for cruises, Margaritaville-style entertainment. I had been a few times with someone who was into the all-inclusive, games in the pool all day type of vibe. I hadn’t been to Cabo before so I thought I’d give it a try. While the views of the Pacific are outstanding, the all you can eat and loud families at the pool all day are not quite my thing.

    Enter San Jose del Cabo. My BFF had a birthday and we wanted to go somewhere that didn’t require a super long flight so Mexico was a plus (3 hours from SJC). Several of my clients had stayed in San Jose del Cabo and said the vibe was completely different. More high end resorts, closer to the quaint downtown gallery district, and lots of great food outside. I chose the Viceroy because it had everything we wanted for a girls weekend: quiet, lots of pools, an amazing spa, and close to downtown ($4 Uber side). During high season the Viceroy can be super $$ (like $1000/night) but around Thanksgiving it was much lower. Upon arrival we met our two butlers who would have provided anything we needed during our stay. I had made reservations ahead so not necessary but still a nice option if needed.

    Bites

    There is no shortage of food off property. Though I must say the sushi, and rooftop dining at the Viceroy were on point, as was the food at the pool.

    Jazmine’s in the Gallery District is a B/L/D spot that cannot be missed. It’s classic Mexican style with lots of choices and high quality ingredients.

    Acre Restaurant is a stunning property several miles inland. It’s also a resort with treehouses. We went to brunch and it was fantastic. A prix-fixed menu where everything is brought to the table family style. The surroundings are lush and tropical.

    Flora Farms is in the same area as Acre with an amazing outdoor restaurant, pizza kitchen, mezcal tasting, shopping, wine tasting, gardens, farm and more. It’s a great 2 hour destination plus another farm to table meal. The best beet salad I’ve ever had.

    La Lupita Raco and Mezcal is also in the Gallery District and is full of life. They were booked several days out but our butlers got us an early spot. Their tacos cover every combination you can think of. Our favorites were pork belly and crispy cheese with flank steak where the cheese had been slightly fried and the tortilla and goodies were inside. https://lalupitamx.com/food.html

    Beyond:

    There is an art walk on Thursday night where local artisans meet along with food stands in front of the cathedral. There are dozens of artists and great handmade tamales, corn, anything you can think of.

    -The other thing I learned is to only bring carry-on luggage if possible as the customs/security can be lengthy. We filled out our customs forms on the plane and made a dash to the extremely long line which could’ve been much worse had we not hightailed it.

    All in all I will find a way back to the Viceroy for another getaway….stay tuned.

  • Central Coast, CA Birthday

    I needed a weekend getaway for a birthday and while I live in the Bay Area of California, Napa is absolutely out of the question in summer in my opinion.  Not only is it overcrowded with tourists, it’s hard to get restaurant, winery, spa reservations without paying upfront or scheduling months in advance. In short the prices are cra-cra.  (The homogenous Marriott is over $500/night.)

    When in doubt head 2+ hours the opposite way to the Central Coast.

    Bits

    -Paso Robles lies 2.5 hours south of the San Jose Airport. Easy and straight shot down Highway 101. With only 30,000 residents and 200 wineries you’re bound to get several tastings under your belt. What’s also nice about the location it’s not super close to Northern or Southern California, making it an ideal spot in the summer with way less people.

    Bites

    Cambria has several restaurants I’ve been visiting for over 20 years.  A few standouts are:

    -Lynn’s restaurant. Solid breakfast/lunch and olallieberry and other pies plus baked goods for sale.

    -Robin’s farm-to-table cuisine. It has a fantastic outdoor garden to eat in and has a wide range of options. 

    -Sow’s Ear has been in business for roughly 40 years and is a local’s favorite.

    -The Sea Chest has been open for 50 years and sits on Moonstone Beach. They don’t take reservations so you might stand outside for a while but the seafood is local and classic.

    -I had a recommendation from a friend to try the Hearst Ranch Winery.  I was told the wine is a 7 but the grounds and views are a 10.   I did have to make reservations but easily got the time I wanted with only a weeks advance notice.

    The property is situated right on the coast and the outside tasting area is pretty large and tables are spread out under trees.  While it was foggy in Cambria, 9 miles south the winery is typically sunny due to the banana shape of the coast.  Definitely worth the visit.  It was beautiful and not too breezy, the appetizers and wine were decent.

    Beyond

    Though I’ve stayed on the coast in Cambria proper there aren’t many high end resort or lodges (save one on Moonstone Beach called White Water) we decided on Allegretto Winery and Resort in Paso Robles.  It is a fantastic spot as a home base. Large property surrounding a courtyard, a large art collection scattered throughout the resort and grounds, pool with cabanas, full services spa, full service restaurant with bar, free bikes, and everything else one could imagine. I will definitely be staying again.

  • Italy in the summer? Part II – The Dolomites

    If you have ever envisioned yourself twirling around on a flower laden hillside like Maria von Traps in The Sound of Music, the Dolomites are for you. 

    It is impossible to take a bad photo. In fact I thought so many of the photos on social media had been retouched—wrong. The Dolomites are stunning. But better in person as the majesty of the mountains, the endless landscape of flowers, bees buzzing about and the smell of nature are intoxicating.  You might even start humming “The hills are alive”…

    Bits

    As I mentioned before, my trip was very last minute and I was mostly interested in the location because of the promise of hiking. When I signed up for the Backroads trip I thought I’d read “hiking OR biking”, when it was indeed AND. With only 2 weeks prior to the trip and only having been on a bike in a Soul Cycle class, I immediately raced to a well-informed and lifelong bicyclist.  While he was in disbelief I had made it through life without riding he nonetheless taught me the basics on a few one hour rides. (He did however point this out to neighbors on the streets—either to share the disbelief or have them politely move aside and give me a wide berth.)  Either way I did ok and didn’t harm anyone in the few hours.

    -The few rides immediately confirmed the fact that yes, padded shorts, gloves are a necessity.  The weather in the Dolomites is ever changing. One day it was in the 80’s and the following in a nearby valley was 46. Bringing layers and rain gear is a must.

    (Side note: As I grew up on a ranch and was riding horses before I could walk, and driving a tractor at a young age I felt qualified. Plus the mantra ‘it’s as easy as riding a bike’ is so prominent I assumed it had to be true.)

    Bites

    I knew the local food would be carb heavy and hearty and I was not disappointed.  The Dolomites sites on the border between Italy and Austria so you’ll see a mix of pasta dishes along with goulash and dumplings. I had tagliatelle with braised deer on several occasions and it was excellent (photo below).  Dinners start at 7 and most of the towns have a siesta from 3-5.  The majority of the meals started with a charcuterie and bread service that was enough of its own.  Add salad, pasta, meat course, and tiramisu and you’ll be more than satisfied.  Note it’s not a bad idea to bring an antacid after a heavy late meal night after night.

    Beyond

    Here are the 3 main areas you’re likely to visit and the hotels I can recommend:

    Selva in Val Gardena, Alpenroyal Hotel

    What I loved:

    -Michelin restaurant on the property

    -Property is in town so when you start your bike ride it’s literally at the front door of the resort

    -I am a spa fan and this is one of the best spas I’ve been to in Europe.In addition to the treatments there is a fantastic indoor/outdoor pool with whirlpools. The spa also has steam and sauna rooms (one with hay, one with salt, etc.).

    What I didn’t love:

    When the receptionist has to show you in person how to find your room it’s a bit alarming. It’s not that the property is overly huge it’s that they’ve added onto buildings and not done it in a seamless way so when walking inside a corridor that should lead to your room, you will run into a wall and have to backtrack, take elevators and/or walk around outside to get to the correct hallway where you will have success.  With only a few days to figure this out it can be a bit frustrating—especially after a few drinks.

    Corvara, Hotel La Perla

    What I loved:

    -Great bar with lots of locals 

    -There is a wine cave downstairs with an impressive selection of local wines

    -Also located in the downtown so you can easily walk or ride a block and be in the hustle and bustle of the small downtown.

    What I didn’t love:

    -The hotel was built in 1956 so it’s not the most modern aesthetically. It’s dark wood, antiques, lace curtains and creaky floors

    -The rooster!!!!!!!  No matter where you stay you will hear the rooster all night long. Bring earplugs.

    -Hard to make the room completely dark with older style window treatments

    Cortina d’Ampezzo, Rose Petra

    https://www.rosapetracortina.it/

    What I loved:

    -Very modern updated hotel

    -Fantastic amenities in the room

    -Beautiful valley views of the 3 peaks

    -Great spa menu

    What I didn’t love:

    -Distance from town (15 minutes by free hotel provided van)

    Do you need a hiking guide? YES YES YES!

    While there are tons of trails and apps available to find your way I would highly suggest a guide. Conde Naste recently had an article stating that 80 people had died in the Dolomites between June and July of this year.  There is a reason for that.  It is extremely easy to go off trail into treacherous areas. On one of our many hikes that seemed to be random, I noticed a small grapefruit-sized rock under a pile a grass that has a small painted white stripe.  The guide said that was a marker. How you would ever find it on your own is beyond me. GET A GUIDE! If for no other easy to get a lay of the land.

  • Italy in the summer? Seriously?

    So far my travels have been a bit more off the beaten path and western Europe in summer has never made the list. However, I found myself in a situation where it had to be July within a 10 day period. But as soon as I heard ‘glass’ in Venice, and heading to the Dolomites to hike I was in.

    As Venice (Part I) and the Dolomites (Part II) are wildly different, they deserve separate focus and therefore separate posts.

    PART I – Venice

    A few bits about Venice in the summer.

    -It’s VERY people-ey and can be extremely hot. Most hotels will forewarn there will be no A/C. Be mentally prepared to be hot-wear the right clothes, have a handheld fan that can be recharged, take a siesta like everyone else does in the heat of the day, etc.

    -Location, location, location. To get out of the crowds we stayed on Murano. Primarily because it is the undisputed center of all things glass AND it is WAY less crowded than Venice.

    The best place to stay is the Hyatt Murano. https://www.hyatt.com/hyatt-centric/vcect-hyatt-centric-murano-venice It is the site of an old glass factory and has much on display. One of the other perks is that they offer a free water taxi service so 24 hours before landing you email your arrival information, stand outside on a numbered dock and they retrieve you. The ride takes about 20 minutes and it drops you about 30 feet in front of the hotel entrance. Could not have been more perfect.

    -While you can certainly pay 100 EU for a private water taxi to Venice/St. Mark’s Square you can also take a free water bus (vaportetti) and get there just the same.

    Bites.

    While there are many food options available you may find yourself a bit lost locating your restaurant of choice in Venice. Google maps does not work well (probably because of the dense buildings) and almost every person you ask say the same thing, “Make your next left and cross over the bridge.” However when everyone says this it becomes suspicious and eventually maddening. Therefore, look around, see where the locals are eating and join them. Can’t beat fresh pasta, amazingly inexpensive wine and blissful tiramisu as it’s meant to be.

    Beyond

    -If I had to do it over again I would opt for a half day private Viator tour to get a lay of the land and see the highlights without wasting hours getting lost amongst the throngs.

    -If you are a glass fan Murano is the holy grail and you will not be disappointed!

  • Is Travel & Leisure right about the Oregon coast?

    Is Travel & Leisure right about the Oregon coast?

    https://www.travelandleisure.com/trip-ideas/road-trips/oregon-coast-road-trip-highway-one

    First of all, let’s establish my travel style.

    Having been born and raised in California my vision of the “coast” is Monterey, Santa Barbara, etc. When I first went to Florence, OR I was unable to find lodging that had the amenities and offerings I had wanted. Fast forward and I read an article about the Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa. You know how sometimes you’ll go somewhere that was reviewed only to find out they had REALLY oversold the property? This is NOT the case here. T&L was spot on. What a fantastic find on a beautiful and wild coastline

    I had a chance in April to go with my BFF for a 3-day weekend. The Headlands Inn and Spa is about 3 hours from the Portland Airport. Easy enough drive through the mountain passing through the Tillamook Forest. When we arrived at the Inn I was delighted to see they had handmade truffles (an actual plate with no one monitoring/counting how many a guest takes) and cucumber water at the front desk. The views from the lobby were stunning with a huge stone fireplace, a stocked bar and floor to ceiling windows of the beach facing Haystack Rock and an expansive beautiful beach. Also in the lobby that day, a local was having a wine tasting with some of the recently awarded winners of the annual Spirits competition in San Francisco.

    Our room faced Haystack Rock and was nicely appointed with all of the high end amenities plus extras like heavy robes in case you wanted to brave the freezing water which was steps in front of the inn. It’s also a pet friendly hotel so there are dog beds, areas outside to hose off your dog along with towels. Everything you could thing of is here. The spa is small but their services are what you would find at another other high end resort. They also have a small shop with some local products as well as spa wear, snacks and drinks.

    We went mainly to spend time walking the beach and relaxing. The beach goes on and on without interruption and there were more dogs than people which was fine with us.

    All in all I was more than pleasantly surprised and hope to find my way back!