Bits, Bites, and Beyond

If you have ever envisioned yourself twirling around on a flower laden hillside like Maria von Traps in The Sound of Music, the Dolomites are for you. 

It is impossible to take a bad photo. In fact I thought so many of the photos on social media had been retouched—wrong. The Dolomites are stunning. But better in person as the majesty of the mountains, the endless landscape of flowers, bees buzzing about and the smell of nature are intoxicating.  You might even start humming “The hills are alive”…

Bits

As I mentioned before, my trip was very last minute and I was mostly interested in the location because of the promise of hiking. When I signed up for the Backroads trip I thought I’d read “hiking OR biking”, when it was indeed AND. With only 2 weeks prior to the trip and only having been on a bike in a Soul Cycle class, I immediately raced to a well-informed and lifelong bicyclist.  While he was in disbelief I had made it through life without riding he nonetheless taught me the basics on a few one hour rides. (He did however point this out to neighbors on the streets—either to share the disbelief or have them politely move aside and give me a wide berth.)  Either way I did ok and didn’t harm anyone in the few hours.

-The few rides immediately confirmed the fact that yes, padded shorts, gloves are a necessity.  The weather in the Dolomites is ever changing. One day it was in the 80’s and the following in a nearby valley was 46. Bringing layers and rain gear is a must.

(Side note: As I grew up on a ranch and was riding horses before I could walk, and driving a tractor at a young age I felt qualified. Plus the mantra ‘it’s as easy as riding a bike’ is so prominent I assumed it had to be true.)

Bites

I knew the local food would be carb heavy and hearty and I was not disappointed.  The Dolomites sites on the border between Italy and Austria so you’ll see a mix of pasta dishes along with goulash and dumplings. I had tagliatelle with braised deer on several occasions and it was excellent (photo below).  Dinners start at 7 and most of the towns have a siesta from 3-5.  The majority of the meals started with a charcuterie and bread service that was enough of its own.  Add salad, pasta, meat course, and tiramisu and you’ll be more than satisfied.  Note it’s not a bad idea to bring an antacid after a heavy late meal night after night.

Beyond

Here are the 3 main areas you’re likely to visit and the hotels I can recommend:

Selva in Val Gardena, Alpenroyal Hotel

What I loved:

-Michelin restaurant on the property

-Property is in town so when you start your bike ride it’s literally at the front door of the resort

-I am a spa fan and this is one of the best spas I’ve been to in Europe.In addition to the treatments there is a fantastic indoor/outdoor pool with whirlpools. The spa also has steam and sauna rooms (one with hay, one with salt, etc.).

What I didn’t love:

When the receptionist has to show you in person how to find your room it’s a bit alarming. It’s not that the property is overly huge it’s that they’ve added onto buildings and not done it in a seamless way so when walking inside a corridor that should lead to your room, you will run into a wall and have to backtrack, take elevators and/or walk around outside to get to the correct hallway where you will have success.  With only a few days to figure this out it can be a bit frustrating—especially after a few drinks.

Corvara, Hotel La Perla

What I loved:

-Great bar with lots of locals 

-There is a wine cave downstairs with an impressive selection of local wines

-Also located in the downtown so you can easily walk or ride a block and be in the hustle and bustle of the small downtown.

What I didn’t love:

-The hotel was built in 1956 so it’s not the most modern aesthetically. It’s dark wood, antiques, lace curtains and creaky floors

-The rooster!!!!!!!  No matter where you stay you will hear the rooster all night long. Bring earplugs.

-Hard to make the room completely dark with older style window treatments

Cortina d’Ampezzo, Rose Petra

https://www.rosapetracortina.it/

What I loved:

-Very modern updated hotel

-Fantastic amenities in the room

-Beautiful valley views of the 3 peaks

-Great spa menu

What I didn’t love:

-Distance from town (15 minutes by free hotel provided van)

Do you need a hiking guide? YES YES YES!

While there are tons of trails and apps available to find your way I would highly suggest a guide. Conde Naste recently had an article stating that 80 people had died in the Dolomites between June and July of this year.  There is a reason for that.  It is extremely easy to go off trail into treacherous areas. On one of our many hikes that seemed to be random, I noticed a small grapefruit-sized rock under a pile a grass that has a small painted white stripe.  The guide said that was a marker. How you would ever find it on your own is beyond me. GET A GUIDE! If for no other easy to get a lay of the land.